These are tools which I use for scribing panel lines. Hasegawa's Line Scribers, Hasegawa's templates and Verlinden's.
I re-scribe all panel lines to make them more deep.
I use a template to scribe round corner rectangles.
As I sand it after scribing, line seems white with powder. You can just blow it with
an air duster.
make invisible this attached lines.
After clean marks and lines, let's start painting work.
Hold parts on a cardboard with both side adhesive tapes.
I drilled a hole under the head and put it on a toothpick.. And stick them on a polystyrene foam.
I thin Mr. Surfacer 1000 with Mr. Leveling thinner which is lacquer for air spraying. I always determine the thin ratio by observing viscidity. However I would say paint: thinner 1:2 respectively.
It's better to use a hand piece instead of a spray can for "Primer". Because as thin as it get is best for scale models. The role of primer is 1. to make tiny scratches invisible, 2. to make good surface for painting and 3. to find invisible scratches or uneven putty works.
Before use paint, mix well. I use a mixing tool.
I organize parts for air spraying. Put parts painted same color on a same cardboard.
As the instruction, I use decals for cockpit.
To put decals on uneven surface, use Mr.ark Softer to fit completely.
Apply Mr. Mark Softer on the surface before putting a decal. Put a decal and gently put pressure with cotton swab. Push all air between the decal and the surface out. Apply Mr. Mark Setter onto the decal and wait roughly one minute. Push gently with cotton swab again. If you forget to remove Mr. Mark Softer within one minute, the decal would melt and you would have to buy another kit. So be careful to use it.
I successfully put these decals on the parts. However I accidentaly melt all decals for RIO seat. So I said be careful!!
It doesn't seem like decal.
For RIO seat, I painted with enamel black.
I touched up with enamel paint.
Confirm every parts fit.